Looking at the past a bit I want to bring your attention to the Roger Dubuis Golden Square. Not the contemporary model, but the one from a few years ago. In a 43mm wide square case, the watch screamed luxury in a way few other watches have. Bold and loud, the watch still in good taste. People that wear one suddenly feel a bit more important, but you aren’t sure why. In fact, I believe the watch may still be in production, even though there are newer Golden Square watches available. While the Golden Square came with Roman or Arabic numerals, I think the Roman numeral version is the king when it comes to appearances. The Arabic numeral version is arguably easier to read, but doesn’t have as impressive a face.
In some respects the watch looks like a (more) metrosexual Cartier. The blued steel hands (gold in at least some of the pieces0 are larger than you might expect and stylized just a bit less than Louis the XIV’s wardrobe. The dial is rich with artistic merit, and could never be referred to as busy or too complex. Though it is a “full dial.” There is a central ring to help with telling the time. The tapered Roman numerals look sharp, and sexy. Blown up more than Cartier’s versions.Adding to the legibility and poise of the watch is a sapphire crystal that has been coated with AR on both sides.
The Excalibur Spider Pirelli, the more humble of the two pre-SIHH offerings, features the automatic caliber RD820SQ with a micro-rotor. The skeletonization with this timepiece is much more striking at first glance because it does not suffer with the blockiness of the engine-like bridge around the Aventador S. The motion has a monochromatic finish for the most part, together with the only color provided by the jewels and the equilibrium. The RD820SQ beats at a comfortable 28,800bph, provides 60 hours of power reserve, and can be a time-only bit with hours and minutes — no moments hand. Like the Excalibur Aventador S, legibility is likely to be a problem here as well.Like all Roger Dubuis Watch Price In Dubai watches produced nowadays, both the Excalibur Aventador S and the Excalibur Spider Pirelli take the prestigious Poinçon de Genève certification. I strongly suggest reading this comprehensive article that attempts to go over the Geneva Seal and Roger Dubuis’ manufacturing procedure for more information.If you have made it this far into the article, then you’re likely a fan of the aggressive and daring designs that Roger Dubuis is known for. These watches are unquestionably polarizing and you either get it or you don’t and I believe that’s the brand’s strategy to watchmaking generally. The Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Pirelli is limited to 88 bits at a retail cost of $69,500 and the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S is limited to 28 bits in a retail price of $214,000. I’ve seen Emmy-award winners less enthusiastic than the Roger Dubuis team was in the recent years — and it’s not only me, I’m convinced: if you should spend some moment, however brief, conversing with them about their enormous new venture, you can tell something super exciting, “a new chapter” as they call it, was going to start… And now, at last, start it did, with the announcement of Roger Dubuis becoming official associate of Lamborghini. A brand new evolution of such magnitude naturally brings with it new watches and, what is better, today a new standard as well! Enter the Roger Dubuis Excalibur Aventador S and its Duotor movement.
An interesting touch on most Roger Dubuis Gold Square models was the perforated lizard strap. It felt like a compliment to kinky driving gloves. They fit nicely on demure lugs with exposed screws on the sides. The Golden Square case is actually quiet curved to fit over one’s wrist nicely. The rear of the watch has a sapphire crystal display back in the center to see the movement. This is good because Roger Dubuis is known to give watches very nicely decorated movements, the one in the Golden Square is an automatic of course. If the 43mm wide case size is too large for you, less “bold” sizes are available. There is a 40mm wide version, 37mm wide version, as well as a much smaller 34mm wide version.
Dial choices on these Golden Square models were plentiful. From light to dark tones, dials could even have mother-of-pearl, diamonds, or engraved centers. On each face though, the sharp angles of the hour numerals and the large hands stand out the most. Just the time not enough for you? Roger Dubuis did, and continues to release Golden Square watches with a variety of complications. There are calendars, chronographs, and a unique dual timezone model that is styled like a regulator. For older models, I recommend the basic three hand models as some of Roger Dubuis’s older movements with additional complications sometimes had issues. If you are getting a new Roger Dubuis watch, this isn’t an issue anymore after Richemont Group too them over and improved their movement production arm.
The watch wouldn’t be called the “Golden Square” if it wasn’t actually a golden square. The versions I have come across have cases either in 18k rose, yellow, or white gold. Prices for these watches retailed to levels above $40,000. On James List there is a version in rose gold with a diamond decorated inner dial for just under $25,000.
See the Roger Dubuis 43mm Golden Square watch available on James List here.